Fuse distribution block for 2 gauge wire full version

Help - Search - Members - Calendar. Full Version: VDO oil presure gauge pegged. New problem. For whatever reason, as soon as I turn the key, before the engine starts, the VDO oil pressure gauge pegs out well past 80psi probablybut 80 is the higest number.

The idiot light works as expected. Its green while the engine is cranking, but goes out about 1 second after the engine fires. The sender is the standard VDO dual sender using a paintball hose remote hose, and a study mount to the case. I have switched the leads at the sender to rule that out. I cleaned the ground between the sender and the mount. Not yet cleaned where the mount attaches to the engine case, but the connection there is solid and has lots of contact.

I forget how the sender works. Does it work by grounding itself? Possible causes: Bad sender. Bad gauge. Missing something? Spend too much time trouble shooting this, and the car is still idling too high. No more time to work tonight. Just ground the lead and see if it changes. If I remember correctly, they do that if the sender lead is not attached.

Oil pressure is highest when the engine is cold. Mine drops off over the first miles as temps go up. If the high pressure doesn't last too long, I'd thin its probably OK. Usually the engine needs to be turning to make pressure.

The gauge peg as soon as the key turns, before the engine even cranks. My engine usually makes 70 to 80 psi pressure on start up. It has never gotten anywhere near pegging the gauge. I am fairly confident that the issue is either the sender, gauge or wire - not the engine. Might be the zener diode inside the gauge is kaput. This basically moves the gauge scale.Bassik - simple, clean, easy. This is the foundation of what KnuKonceptz calls Bassik.

Easy to install, simple to connect and cost effective! The BK accepts 4 gauge and 8 gauge power wire without the use of adapters on both the input and output side of this distribution block. Oversized allen screws can secure either gauge without any modification or additional parts to complicate the design. The BK fuse block has dual inputs which can be used to link additional blocks together to make 4 or 6 way fuse distribution simple.

In need of a 4 way ground block? Place our Mini-Links into the BK and you now have yourself a 4 way ground block that accepts 4 gauge and 8 gauge! Your choice of two fuses is included with the BK Select "Link" to turn your BK into a 4 way 4 gauge ground block. Dimensions L x W x H: 2. If you would like to be notified when this product becomes available please enter your email address below.

When the item is back in stock we will send you and email letting you know that the product is now available for purchase.

Full Name:. Email Address:. Order Online Or Call Today - Please click on a product quesion below to reveal the answer. How do I determine what size fuses I need for this fuse block? Each output of a fuse distribution block normally is connected to a single amplifier. Each amplifier will have either a fuse on board or the manufacture will state within the manual's installation guide or spec sheet what the max fuse rating or current draw of the amplifier is.

If your amp has three 30A fuses on boards, you want a A fuse for that particular output of this block 90A is not an option we offer. If the second amp has a single 40A fuse, then a 40A fuse goes into that output of the block and thus a A and 40A would be required.

No, the second input is optional only one input is required to power both fused outputs. The second input is for connecting a second battery or daisy chain configuration to additional distribution blocks.

Having the second port makes this item more flexible to the installer then a single port block. Thank You! We will notify you when this product becomes available.

Newsletter Signup: Subscribe.Full Version: RF drain wire on power cords. You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting. Pages: 1 2. I have a question concerning the termination of the drain wire. My boat does not appear to have a common grounding point.

I see in the manuals that it is permissible to wire the RF drain wire directly to the negative of the battery. I have installed a new fuse block specifically for the new electronics. It is ran back to an independent battery that will be used only for the new electronics. Engine start and all pre existing electrical components are run off a separate battery although I plan to set it up so the engine will charge the new battery when running.

That said, can I just terminate the RF grounds with the negative wires from each individual power cord for each individual component together at the newly installed fuse block? Chuck - Raymarine - Moderator. Please click here to view a FAQ addressing this subject.

Do you have a recommended gauge of wire to connect the drain wires back to the engine block? The run will be 15 - 20 ft tops. Raymarine has not specified a recommended wire gauge for extending drain leads.

I used 14 gauge for similar length drain extensions onboard my own boat. Chuck, I have a bonding cable and an inboard but getting the drain wire to them would be difficult. Can I just got to the negative post on the battery? Scoffer, As challenging as it may be, it is recommended that the drain leads be routed to the bonding cable per the FAQ referenced within my initial response to this thread.

Just out of curiosity, what does the RF drain wire actually do? This is the first time I've come across this, none of the other marine electronics I've installed in the past from other manufacturers had this wire. Electrical bonding and RF drains are intended to prevent static electricity build-up that can interfere with radio and navigational equipment. Proper bonding will also assist in prevention of galvanic corrosion and with lightning protection by allowing the current to pass through the vessel's structure with minimum arcing.

Finally, bonding prevents dangerous static discharges in fuel tanks and hoses.This is an in-depth fuse tutorial explaining everything you need to know about fuses and how to size a fuse. For your fuse to do its job correctly and protect your wires, it should be rated about 1.

Actually, the load of the circuit should have nothing to do with choosing a fuse size. So you just bought your stuff at Oznium and are getting ready to plan your installation while USPS gets it to your door. One of the first questions to ask when planning your installation is what size wire to use, which will later determine what fuse to use.

How to Determine the Fuse/Wire Size

Current is measured in Amperes, abbreviated to Amps or just the letter A. Add the values and divide by to get your total current in Amps. You can use this value in the fuse size chart above to determine the minimum wire size required. Put 1. That table tells you that you should have no smaller than 21 gauge wire for your circuit. Fuse rating is the amount of current needed for the fuse to blow or break. When this happens, it stops the electrical power from flowing through the electrical circuit.

The fuse rating is a valuable piece of information because it helps you to protect your electrical circuit and therefore should never be neglected. Every electrical circuit will need a different amount of electrical current, what is just right for one electrical circuit may be too much or too little for another.

Do the right thing and protect your circuit. Hopefully this guide helps you to install all the products here at Oznium quickly and most importantly, safely. Anyone who needs additional information or has specific or more complex installations, feel free to get in touch or post a question below.

I have a question what size fuse in my car car should I run with a W LED high beam and low beam Just want to know what size I should be running to get the most out of my LED headlights whatever information you can give me that would be helpful thank you. Or If there is some pre installed factory wire and you have changed the lights. If the wire shorts out and has too large a fuse installed it could melt the insulation right off the copper conductor and get so hot that it could start something on fire!

If I misunderstood what you were asking I apologize. That is only one part of the considerations of properly fuse protecting a circuit. I am installing a 20 amp max marine waterproof 12VDC socket above my rear bumper for accessories such as a tire inflator 15 amps. The cable run from the battery is approximately 15 feet. I want to ensure no power loss to plan on running a 10AWG wire. Is that too much, too low, or about right?

MIght install separate fuse box in the engine bay, so can add more accessories later.View Full Version : How to wire for interior trailer lights??

I'm a few months into my new trailer and I love it! My dilema is, that if my truck is not running, the lights inside the trailer don't work. Daylight is getting shorter here. I think the lights on the ceiling are little halogen lights.

Do I need a separate battery inside the trailer like a boat or what? I don't know jack about wiring or electricity. So keep it simple for me guys. If you want a constant power source for your lights inside your trailer you would need to add a small fuse block under the hood, run you a wire from the new fuse block to the rear wiring harness assuming there is an extra connection in the harness that is not being used and then run from the trailer harness on the trailer side through a switch to the lights you want to power.

Remember though if you leave them on they will drain your battery till it be dead. If any of the wires going to the trailer harness are constant 12v meaning key off you could tap right into that but that would be what one might call "jimmy rigging" it. I dont think any would be constant power though.

Opus A6s Display

Battery onna trailer is the only way to have 12v lights in there unless you wanna leave the lights on inna truck. I've done that with a tool trailer in past, but have since abandoned the system. I have v fluorescent light in mine now, and a couple outlets and a hole inna floor where I can run an extension chord in there to run it all.

Mostly got motivated to hook it up that way 'cause I needed to be able to run a small heater in there to keep my glues and other pookies from freezing whilst parked on jobsites. Yeah, it actually usta freeze down here on a fairly regular basis. But I don't miss the 12v lights at all, and I really appreciate the big lights, outlets for battery chargers and such, and connection for the heater s. Also, if you like the idea of the seperate battery just so you can have some isolated 12v lights, and not worry about running down your system, check your trucks fuse wiring diagram or look in the boxes usually i inside and 1 under hood.

This makes the installation of a seperate battery infinitely easier, almost a no brainer. Then it can be easily wired to automatically charge yet you can put in a simple switch to isolate it from the main to prevent accidental discharge of the main. When a system wasn't designed in anticipation of a load, you have to make sure you don't overload your alternater. CX, I'm surprised to hear that it freezes down there. The extension cord idea sounds pretty simple. I don't know how well the existing lights work.

Although I do like the idea of a big flourescent shop light. An outlet for a battery charger would be nice too. I'll have to think about a heater as well come to think of it. Jim, I do have a new Chevy truck, I'll have to look in the morning at the fuse box. When you say "installation of a separate battery almost a no brainer" sorry but I'm clueless in this area.

Would this be a wire from the truck fuse box to a battery on the trailer?? That wire runs up to the fuse block under the hood it's not connected may have to dig it out up there too.

fuse distribution block for 2 gauge wire full version

Then mount a wall switch in the trailer and wire it off the hot white on the trailer now. Pretty good so far. It's not the mega food companies I had worked for in the past - much nicer people and all hard workers and NON union.I added in navigation lights and a power outlet source for the dash, so I can run a spot light when needed.

Can anyone that understands marine wiring please check out my design to see if it looks okay or not? I understand that 10 AWG Marine tinned wire is maybe a little over kill for most of this design, however, I don't want things to fry again like this summer, so I am leaning towards heavy duty for anything carrying a current.

I am rewiring the entire boat as I have had severe meltdown in too many places to not be extra cautious. Let me know how I did okay? Thanks, Mike in Missouri - I pronounce that Misery.

Uno build part 3 4 channel wireing and diy distribution blocks

Can you make it larger? Tried to zoom in on it but it gets too blurry. Thanks for looking. Your running a positive wire to both sides of the fused terminal block, that will defeat the purpose of the fuses. I would add a large fuse in the positive wire to the fuse panel right at the battery. In case of a short, I want the shortest run of wire possible to remain energized, if it's dead, it can't burn.

fuse distribution block for 2 gauge wire full version

I'll give you another thing to consider as well. In the case of a dead short, 10 gauge wire will burn longer and hotter than say, 16 gauge the 16 will burn through fasterso you may not be getting the protection you're hoping for.

High quality wire, correctly installed, and correctly sized for the circuit, will last many, many years. The Red wire connected on the fuse block on the LEFT side is the main connection for the fuseblock from the battery, on the right side the wires come out of the fuse block after going through the fuses to go to the various places that need 12 volts.

This type of Fuse block also has a negative buss on it where all my grounds are connected in the front of the boat. What size Large fuse should I use at the battery connection area to protect the line?

Thanks for the response. Mike I would add up the amperage draw from everything on that circuit, then use a fuse about 5 amps larger than the total. There's probably a formula to do this correctly, more formal than my "backyard engineering" method. I did not examine the whole diagram, but I would suggest you do not need to use 10 ga wire in as many places as you have it.

Take the wire supplying the internal light for the instruments. The same idea for the purple ignition on wire supplying power to the electrical gauges. One Idea I would consider is this.

Use the purple "key on" wire from the ignition switch to power a relay, that has a direct fused wire going to the battery. That will remove the electrical load from all the accessories from the ignition switch, and make life easier for the ignition switch.

fuse distribution block for 2 gauge wire full version

Great work on spending the time with MS paint to make the diagram. I would not have the patience.Mitchell1 R obtains wiring diagrams and technical service bulletins, containing wiring diagram changes, from the domestic and import manufacturers.

These are checked for accuracy and are all redrawn into a consistent format for easy use. All system wiring diagrams are available in black and white format and may be printed depending on your program settings and available printer hardware. In the past, when cars were simpler, diagrams were simpler. All components were connected by wires, and diagrams seldom exceeded 4 pages in length. Today, some wiring diagrams require more than 16 pages. It would be impractical to expect a service technician to trace a wire from page 1 across every page to page Removing some of the wiring maze reduces eyestrain and time wasted searching across several pages.

Today, the majority of Mitchell1 R diagrams follow a much improved format, which permits space for internal switch details, and component and ground locations. Components shown with a dashed line instead of a solid line indicate not all circuits are shown in this particular diagram circuits shown in system diagrams are typically applicable to that system only. The remaining circuits connected to that component will be shown in the appropriate system that they apply to. The Data Link Connectors wiring diagrams show the circuits by which the various on-board computers exchange information, and the diagnostic connectors used for diagnosis and their location.

The Ground Distribution wiring diagrams show all vehicle ground points, their location, and the components common to those ground points. The Power Distribution wiring diagrams show the power feed circuits and the components common to those power feeds. Then, go to that system and locate the component within the wiring diagram. For example, if you don't know the specific system in which the ignition switch is located, look up ignition switch in the wiring diagram component location tables and go to the appropriate wiring diagram s which contain either full or partial views of the ignition switch.

The full view of the ignition switch is located in Power Distribution.

Fuse Blocks & Fuse Holders

The first listing for the component will be the full or most complete view of the component. Additional listings will be partial views of the component. Not all components are used on all models. All components will have a partial view in Ground Distribution and Power Distribution. Data Link Connectors show connecting circuits between modules.

Alternate names for components may be listed in wiring diagram component locations tables.

fuse distribution block for 2 gauge wire full version

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